What to see in Elena Ferrante's Naples

I'm getting terribly excited about our upcoming tour of Elena Ferrante's Naples. This has always been my favorite city in Italy and right now happens to be a wonderful time to visit. Just as Ferrante herself as explained in interviews, Naples can be a temperamental city that goes through up and down cycles. I spent time in Naples in 2001-02 when things were very good, then again in 2007-08 when it was awful. Right now, Naples is amazing.

There's an incredible energy of optimism in the air. Of course, the city described in the Neapolitan novels is a difficult place. On our tour, we'll discuss the post-war Naples of Elena and Lila at length, but we'll also enjoy the city as it is today and see some of its most important historic monuments, like the cloister of Santa Chiara and the Castel Nuovo. And we'll eat plenty of wonderful Neapolitan food and pastry.

Please enjoy this photo slideshow of some of the sites we'll see on our tour of Elena Ferrante's Naples.

Castel dell Ovo

Seen on the cover of "The Story of Lost Child" the Castel dell Ovo is a medieval castle associated with the Roman poet Virgil.

Piazza dei Martiri

This piazza in the Chiaia district is where Lila had her elegant shoe salon.

Piazza dei Martiri

This is one of the four lions Lila describes to Imma when she becomes absorbed by Neapolitan history in "The Story of a Lost Child".

Galleria Umberto I

A shopping destination near the Royal Palace where we'll sample sfogliatelle, the signature pastry of Naples.

Sfogliatella Mary

Signor Spagnolo's pastries were beloved in the Neapolitan novels. Fierce debate rages among Neapolitans over who has the best sfogliatelle. On Sunday's, lines form out into the street for one of these.

Gran Caffé Gambrinus

An old and elegant caffe, the Gambrinus is where Elena and her daughters visit with Gigliola.

Gesù Nuovo

One of the most famous among 600 churches in Naples

Santa Chiara

The famous majolica cloister for the nuns of Santa Chiara

Naples National Archaeological Museum

A close-up of the massive Farnese Hercules

Castel Nuovo

Originally an Angevin castle, the Renaissance arch was built by Alfonso V of Aragon when Naples was conquered by the Aragonese. 

Sea Garden

When Elena is hired to take the stationer's girls to "Sea Garden" during the summer months, it is described as the beach right where the Mergellina neighborhood becomes Posillipo

Posillipo

A view of Naples from the expensive neighborhood along the sea where Michele Solara buys a apartment to show off his wealth

Rettifilo

The Rettifilo where Ferrante's characters often shop is the Corso Umberto

Vomero

Looking up to the Vomero, the elegant neighborhood where Elena lives in an apartment overlooking the sea on Via Torquato Tasso

While exploring Naples in preparation for the September tour, I made a jaw dropping discovery. Ferrante describes "Sea Garden", the beach where Elena is hired to take the two young girls during the summer, as the place right where the Mergellina neighborhood meets Posillipo. As I walked around this area, I looked up at the bus stop adjacent to the shore and saw this:

BAGNO ELENA. I felt sort of stunned. Had Ferrante found inspiration for her pen name as well as her main character right here on this spot? I wandered back toward the Mergellina along the waterfront and found a place to sit down, think and enjoy a gelato. Then I noticed this:

CAFFE GRECO. Elena Greco! Had Ferrante sat right here when she was first creating the Neapolitan novels? I can't wait to find out what else we'll discover together.